A Winter Walk in Maine vs. England

Between sabbaticals to Japan and England, my husband and I returned home for the holidays to see our family. We have a tradition of welcoming the New Year at Popham Beach. This three mile state park is a half an hour drive from our house in midcoast Maine.

The easiest place for a winter walk in Maine is a beach since the tide washes away the ice and snow.

Our family motto is: There is no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing. L.L. Bean started in Maine for a good reason. My blue Bean coat is perfect for subfreezing, windy days and has lasted since college. The company is a big local employer, especially of African immigrants.

It was hard to say who was happier to be back at Popham: our daughter or our dog.

Dogs are only allowed at Popham State Park offseason. We had to leash Scout to keep her out of the frigid sea. For most of our walk, we had the beach to ourselves.

As a photographer, I'm drawn to the winter light and empty landscapes.

The days are short this far up north, but the colors are intense.

Sunset is my favorite time at the shore, despite the chill.

Even the dune grass seemed to shiver in the wind.

Only in winter do you see such dramatic sunsets.

We stayed until the sun had burnt down to embers.

A week after the Popham walk, Henry and I flew to England, where the temperature rarely drops below freezing. University Parks is a fifteen minute walk from our sabbatical home in Oxford.

The crocuses and snowdrops were at peak bloom on February 20th, two months earlier than Maine.

As much as I'm enjoying an early spring, I miss skiing out our back door and the winter light. Most days in England are overcast and often wet. Still, it's good writing weather so I'm making good progress on my novels. I brought waterproof layers and boots. A winter walk is always welcome.

Blogwatch: this post is part of Les @A Tidewater Gardener's annual Winter Walk Off.

Mother-Daughter Time in California

I was surprised when my daughter asked to visit Pomona, Stanford and Berkeley on our college tour. Gemma was looking for a small liberal arts school in the mountains with active outing and nordic ski clubs and no Greek life. She would have to miss a week of high school to fly from Maine to a region she'd never seen.

I asked, "Do you want to go to college in California or do you want to visit the west coast?" When Gemma admitted to the latter, I promised to take her there after she was accepted to college. So last month we flew to San Francisco for one last mother-daughter vacation before she starts Middlebury College in February.

At Half Moon Bay, CA with my daughter and my friend's dog. Photo by Martha Enthoven Stid, our host in Menlo Park.

Middlebury admits one sixth of the freshman to start in February, allowing time for a gap term. Gemma had trekked through the Scottish highlands with her cousin and worked on organic farms in France and in New Zealand (via WWOOF). We'd reunited for Christmas in the UK with my husband's family.

After wet England, we were ready for some Californian sunshine, but somehow we brought the rain with us, nearly ending their drought! Luckily the Muir redwoods were just as lovely in a misty drizzle. We spent our first day hiking with my daughter's friend from Chewonki Semester School, whose family hosted us in San Francisco.



As the sun broke through the clouds, we hiked from Muir Beach Overlook down to Muir Beach and had a tasty pub style lunch at The Pelican Inn (his family is half British too). That's a real pelican in my opening shot. Muir Beach and the pub are on the other side of the Golden Gate Bridge and up the bay.

Muir Beach

Double jet-lagged from England, I fell into the teen timezone, staying up past midnight and sleeping late.

My Snap Chat debut via Gemma.

We enjoyed cocktails and sodas at Top of the Mark, overlooking the San Francisco skyline. Our best meal out was at Range, a restaurant owned by the brother of my oldest friend. Range's chickpea fritters tasted like cheese souffle only lighter and healthier. All the ingredients were fresh and local, a joy in January. The Mission neighborhood, with its funky after hours boutiques and vibrant street art, was fun to explore at night.

My daughter revived my inner teen, suggesting we try on designer dresses at BCBG just for fun, imagining life on the red carpet. Then we rummaged through the sale racks for clothes we would wear in the real world. Stepping out of the changing rooms in our favorite dresses, we had an hilarious surprise. When Gemma leaves for college, I'll miss her laughter. It was hard enough saying goodbye to our friends in California.

When I last saw Miriam, we were at M.I.T. graduate school studying politics. There were only four women in our year so we bonded tightly. She was a fabulous cook and taught me how to make Oyakodon, a Japanese dish I still enjoy with my family. In San Francisco she treated me to excellent dim sum at Hong Kong Lounge. We reconnected like no time had passed and could have chatted for hours.

After a week of staying with friends, we pushed the boat out for the Monterey Plaza Hotel and Spa. The location, Cannery Row was the setting/title of one of Gemma's favorite novels. My dad emailed a link to a literary tour of Monterey, and we were pleased to find Doc's shack still standing. The character was modeled on a real marine scientist and friend of Steinbeck.

Our journey down the coast started out well when Enterprise Car Rental offered me a free upgrade to a BMW. Yes! It was a challenging drive in heavy traffic, thick fog, torrential rain and longer still dealing with a flat tire, but it was well worth the journey just to see the Monterey Bay Aquarium.

Braying sea lions and Pacific waves breaking under our cantilevered hotel lulled us to sleep. I woke early to watch the sea otters fishing in the surf while Gemma slept in. I wasn't quick enough to photograph a pod of dolphins leaping past the pier so I phoned my daughter. She stepped out on the balcony in time to see them.

With borrowed binoculars we watched hundreds more dolphins from the shore path, passing like a parade at sunset. We reminisced about the past and discussed her plans for the future: Philosophy, Studio Arts, Psychology, Music?

Today my son and I are helping Gemma move into her dorm. I'm so lucky to have two marvelous children, and Middlebury is a wonderful school. Still, it's hard to let go.

I will cherish these memories...

My daughter at Half Moon Bay, California.

England in Springtime

Hello, I'm back! We've been in England visiting my in-laws, who live on this gorgeous stretch of the
Thames River.  This is the village where my husband grew up.

For provisions we headed to Wallingford (photo above), which hasn't changed much since medieval times. We easily found wellies (rubber boots) for my daughter but not a replacement headset for her iPod. I highly recommend the antique arcade and the Wallingford Bookshop. Agatha Christie lived outside this charming town. My mother-in-law, an occupational therapist, used to help care for her.

My daughter was amused to find a supermarket aisle devoted to tea and snapped this photo. I tasted a Cornish cheese called yarg, wrapped in nettles. I have a special interest in all thing Cornish since the young adult novel I'm revising is set in Cornwall.

For "research" my husband and I had to visit the Catherine Wheel, a favorite pub in Goring-on-Thames.

Back in the day, food was cooked directly over the fire.

The hidden men's room.

Amos sings along to opera and pop.

When we tired of the singing dog, we took the train to London. After watching a superb performance of 
Gorky's Children of the Sun at the National Theatre, we admired the view from the Millenium Bridge.

The weather was damp and chilly,
but the sun came out for
my husband's birthday party.

The best part of our visit was
catching up with family
and old friends.
I met Sherry and Safia
during my junior year abroad in London.

If you live in the UK or Japan,
check out Safia's fair trade clothing company:
People Tree.
She's wearing one of her dresses
in hand woven fabric.

England, I already miss you.  Photo by my daughter.

Maine Vacation Advice from a Local

Lobster Wharf Sunset at Pott's Point, Harpswell

A blog buddy is planning a 4-5 day vacation to Maine this summer. She likes quaint towns and nature. I’m sharing my advice as many of you have mentioned wanting to visit here. You can combine all of my options for a 2-week vacation.

Option 1: Acadia National Park (4-5 days) 

Otter Cliffs at Acadia National Park

If you want to stay in one perfect spot, go to Acadia. Bar Harbor is a cute town with shops and good restaurants. You can take boat trips to islands and rent mountain bikes to explore the carriage trails. What’s unique about Acadia is you get mountains, lakes, ocean and islands all in one. You also get a lot of tourists in August but early/mid June is quieter. Make reservations months in advance during the high season. Fly into Bangor and rent a car.

Option 2: Portland and Coastal Towns (4-8 days)

If you want to see my part of Maine, fly into Portland or drive a couple of hours north from Boston.

Waterfront Portland

Day 1: Portland
Explore cute boutiques in the Old Port area. Browse at Longfellow Books. Get Frozen yogurt and fresh fruit toppings at GoBerry. Eat fresh local sushi or reserve weeks ahead at gourmet Fore Street and dine on native ingredients. Spend the night at the Portland Regency Hotel and Spa. Visit the islands of Casco Bay via ferry if you have an extra day.

Days 2 and 3: Freeport, Brunswick, Bath and Phippsburg (or expand to 4 days)

My watercolor of Wolfe's Neck Park, Freeport

Freeport: on your drive up 295 to Brunswick, stop in Freeport to outlet shop or to visit Wolfe’s Neck Park for a picnic and a gorgeous hike along the coast, best at high tide. 

My photo of Bowdoin College in early autumn

Brunswick: college town as your base. Stay 2 nights at The Brunswick Inn (lovely 19th century B&B off the town green) or The Inn at Brunswick Station (modern new hotel by campus). There’s a farmers’ market on the town green on Tuesday and Friday mornings and at Crystal Spring Farm on Saturday morning. The farm is a nice place for a walk in the woods too. Visit Bowdoin College and museums, Gulf of Maine Books, Wyler's Gallery, flea market at Fort Andros, nice public library and several good restaurants in town. Lunch spot favorites: Wild Oats Bakery and Café (quick) or Frontier Café (leisurely). Coffee at Little Dog. Local made ice cream at Cote's at 212 Maine Street (May-August and worth the long line) or at Gelato Fiasco (year round). Local made candy at Wilbur's of Maine. Artsy movies at Eveningstar Cinema and at Frontier. Live classical music concerts at the Bowdoin International Music Festival and musicals at The Maine State Music Theater. Art walks on second Fridays of the month and several year round galleries in town.

My photo of Bath, Maine

Bath: a quaint shipping town. Visit the Maine Maritime Museum, The Bath Book Shop, antique shops, Now You’re Cooking and Reny’s general store. Coffee at Cafe Creme. For dinner get pulled pork and local beer on tap at Beale Street Barbeque or for a more gourmet experience with local ingredients go to Solo Bistro.

My photo of Seawall Beach from Morse Mountain

Phippsburg: swim and walk at 3-mile Popham State Park (best at low tide) or hike Morse Mountain to Seawall Beach. Have a lobster roll lunch at Spinney’s at Fort Popham.

Tidal Pools at Bailey Island

Day 4: Bailey Island, Harpswell. Stay at the Driftwood Inn.  Explore Bailey Island, walk to the  Giant Stairway and eat fresh caught lobster at Cook’s Lobster House. The island is accessible year round by car from Harpswell or by ferry from Portland in the summer.

Optional Day 5/6: Boothbay Harbor or Monhegan Island
Maine Botanical Gardens and Boothbay Harbor.
Or spend a night on rustic Monhegan Island.

More Options:
Camp at Baxter State Park
Hike in the White Mountains,
Stay in cabins on Moosehead Lake.
Off the beaten track: Deer Isle.
Click on my Maine Places label.

If you've visited or live in Maine, please add more suggestions in the comments.  Advertisement links won't be published.

Reviewer's Disclaimer: no free products were received for this post.

It's nice to think of summer today. Remember what I said about March being winter in Maine?
After a week of 60 to 80 degree temperatures, I woke up this morning to all this snow.

2016 Update: In Portland, GoBerry has shut but Gelato Fiasco has opened another store in the Old Port area. The Bath Book Shop closed but a new bookstore opened, The Mustard Seed in Bath.